Chocolate and Mango-Passion Roll Cakes
This recipe comes from Ettore Cioccia, who I call "my master" because I've followed several recipes from his blog Bavette and they all turn out amazing. On top of that, I had the luck of attending a pastry course he gave in Madrid and I couldn't have enjoyed it more. So if you feel like making a delicious dessert and spending a good while in the kitchen putting together different components, you can pick any of Ettore's recipes and you'll be guaranteed success. Today I'm sharing my version of his chocolate and mango-passion fruit roll cakes. The only thing I did differently from his recipe was the pionono sponge, since I used the one from another pastry great: Osvaldo Gross.

Ingredients
For the dark chocolate ganache
- 100 g (3.5 oz) heavy cream (30-35% fat)
- 100 g (3.5 oz) chocolate (66% cocoa)
- 210 g (7.4 oz / about 1 cup) cold heavy cream
For the pionono-style sponge
- 5 eggs
- 50 g (1.75 oz / about 1/4 cup) sugar
- 50 g (1.75 oz / about 1/3 cup) flour
- A pinch of salt
- One tablespoon of honey (about 25 g / 0.9 oz)
For the exotic jam
- 265 g (9.3 oz) mango purée
- 85 g (3 oz) passion fruit purée
- 70 g (2.5 oz / about 1/3 cup) granulated sugar
- 13 g (0.5 oz) pectin
For the Ferrero Rocher glaze
- 250 g (8.8 oz) chocolate (60% cocoa)
- 50 g (1.75 oz / about 1/4 cup) sunflower oil
- 70 g (2.5 oz / about 1/2 cup) granulated almonds
Method
Dark chocolate ganache
- In a small saucepan, bring 100 g (3.5 oz) of cream to a boil. Pour the boiling cream over the chocolate (which we've previously melted in the microwave) in two or three additions, mixing well after each one.
- Then add the cold cream and mix until everything is well combined. Cover with cling film pressed against the surface and chill in the fridge for at least 4 hours.
For the pionono-style sponge
- Preheat the oven to 190ºC – 200ºC (375ºF – 390ºF).
- Put the eggs into the bowl of your stand mixer along with the sugar, salt, and honey, and whisk until you reach what's called "ribbon stage" (this is when you can lift a spoonful of batter and drizzle it over the rest, drawing lines on the surface that don't disappear right away). Since it takes a good while, it's best to use a stand mixer.
- Sift the flour and fold it in with the mixer at minimum speed. Bump the speed up to maximum for a few seconds.
- Using a spatula, fold everything together with gentle, sweeping motions.
- Prepare the oven tray with parchment paper greased with butter or margarine.
- Pour the batter onto the prepared tray and spread it out so the surface is level (we want a thin sponge, about 4-5 mm / 1/6 inch thick).
- Bake for 8 to 10 minutes until the surface is golden and the bottom is too — you can check by lifting it with the help of the paper (carefully, so you don't burn yourself).
For the exotic jam
- Mix the sugar with the pectin.
- Gently heat both fruit purées together to about 40ºC (105ºF) and add the sugar-pectin mixture. Bring to a boil for a few seconds.
- Remove from the heat and transfer the purée to a clean bowl.
- Let it cool to 36ºC (97ºF), stirring frequently.
- Finally, spread a thin, even layer of the jam over the sponge sheet. Chill in the fridge until the jam firms up a little.
For the Ferrero Rocher glaze
- Melt the chocolate to about 50ºC (120ºF) in the microwave.
- Stir in the sunflower oil and mix well.
- Add the granulated almonds and mix again so they're evenly distributed.
- Let the coating cool down to 35ºC (95ºF).
Assembling the dessert
- With electric beaters, whip a little more than half of the chocolate ganache and keep the rest in the fridge. At medium speed, whip just until you get a creamy texture.
- Spread a thin, even layer of ganache over the jam we placed on the sponge. Let it firm up in the fridge.
- Cut the sponge — with its layers of jam and ganache — into strips. I made mine 5 cm (2 inches) wide.
- Roll up each strip with the filling on the inside, being careful not to tear the sponge.
- Freeze the rolls for about 10-15 minutes (or you can leave them in the freezer until you need them if you've prepared the recipe ahead).
- Take the rolls out of the freezer and dip each one into the chocolate coating we prepared, going about halfway up.
- Whip the rest of the ganache with electric beaters at medium speed until you get a medium-firm consistency.
- Using a piping bag fitted with a star tip, pipe little chocolate roses on top of each roll. You can decorate with cocoa nibs.
- Let them temper a bit and enjoy.
PiC tips
- Even though I followed the exact proportions, my jam didn't set as much as I'd have liked (no idea why), so if you see it's too runny, you can add a bit more pectin (that's the ingredient that gels it). I'd also suggest not using all of the jam you make — pay attention to the thickness and aim for a thin layer over the sponge base.
- In his recipe, Ettore Cioccia makes 4 large roll cakes; I preferred bite-sized portions — or rather, two- or three-bite ones ;-). You can adjust this however you like when you cut the sponge.










